Gentle waves lap rhythmically against the side of the boat as our skipper navigates around another rocky outcrop. We nudge slowly into the next inlet, sandwiched between red-tinged serrated cliffs rising 3,000ft into an unclouded sky. No wonder Oman’s Musandam peninsula has been dubbed “the Norway of Arabia”.
That, however, is where the similarity ends. Instead of being wrapped up in layers, I’m lounging on a low cushion being warmed by the morning sunshine in an open dhow, a traditional wooden fishing vessel. Seeing my empty plate, the onboard guide Khalid Mahmood offers me yet another tiny cup of black coffee, sweetened with cardamom, alongside a succulent date; a classic Arabian welcome.
“They will keep on coming until you say no,” he says, laughing. It turns out to be a useful tip for our week sailing along the coastline of the Gulf on the 1,260-passenger Celestyal Journey.
Think of this region and it’s likely blingy, oil-rich cities such as Abu Dhabi and Doha spring to mind. Yes, they’re also part of our itinerary, but beyond the man-made excesses, we experience real natural attractions, none more so than the world’s only desert fjords, or khors, near the port of Khasab on Oman’s northernmost tip.
One of two pools aboard Celestyal Journey
We pass tiny Telegraph Island, less than three acres, where crumbling buildings mark the legacy of a British Empire outpost that was part of a communications station network between England and India from 1864 to 1869. Soldiers shipped to the island through the twisting fjords complained of being driven mad when they were stationed there for months.
• Read our full travel guide to Oman
I’m intrigued when Mahmood explains this was the origin of the phrase “going around the bend”.
Before long, we’re back on our floating base. Anyone familiar with Greek-owned Celestyal, which has two ships, might assume we’d been blown way off course. In a departure from its Greek and Mediterranean heartlands, however, Celestyal recently decided to sail Middle Eastern waters with a series of three, four and seven-night itineraries. It’s an affordable and accessible way to explore destinations better known for five-star and even self-appointed seven-star hotels.
What you need to know
Our first stop is Doha, the Qatari capital. A wide choice of shore excursions is offered in every port. Here, these include a day at the beach and visits to museums and the Golden Mosque, bedecked with thousands of gold tiles.
Experiencing Ramadan
Our trip coincides with Ramadan, the Muslim month of fasting. As dusk falls, the streets fill with families gathering for the Iftar fast-breaking evening meal. They meet in outdoor restaurants and sit in public spaces eating picnics, while balloon sellers and street vendors mingle with the crowds.
• 9 of the best things to do in Doha
Doha is the capital of Qatar
ALAMY
Going nowhere in particular, we chance upon a shop where pampered falcons, Qatar’s national bird, doze on perches in serried ranks. The owner proudly shows us his avian wares. There is a majestic gyrfalcon, its snow-white plumage spotted with black dots resembling regal ermine. Nearby roosts a powerful brown streaked saker, the second largest falcon species, and then a peregrine, the fastest bird in the world, which reaches speeds of 200mph as it dives towards its prey.
These highly prized birds are entrenched in Bedouin culture. Once used to hunt for food, they’re now kept as pets and for competitions. The best change hands for six-figure sums. We feel privileged to see them.
Exploring the souks
Tucked off the main streets are narrow, maze-like souks. Timeless stalls piled high with jewel-bright spices and dates rub shoulders with stands flogging mobile phone accessories and tourist tat.
The beach on Sir Bani Yas Island is reserved exclusively for Celestyal guests
ALAMY
Next stop is Sir Bani Yas Island in the United Arab Emirates. Here, in 1971, the late ruler and founder of the UAE, His Highness Sheikh Zayed Bin Sultan Al Nahyan established a nature reserve occupied by about 11,000 animals, including indigenous species such as the Arabian oryx, once on the brink of extinction. I’d been looking forward to it but am sad to see a dismal-looking zebra, which the guide flippantly describes as “the loneliest one in the world”, and small wild cat enclosures; the antithesis of the vast areas where these animals would roam in the wild. With hindsight, I should have stayed on the pristine beach, where a section is reserved exclusively for Celestyal guests.
• 9 of the best Middle East cruises
Nothing else is a let-down, however. In Abu Dhabi, some high-octane types make tracks to the F1 Yas Marina Circuit, home of the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix, while thrill-seekers go to Ferrari World theme park, where the world’s fastest rollercoaster replicates the acceleration of a racing car. Not for me. I take the gentle option, which only involves craning my neck up at the ceiling of Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, which drips with ornate chandeliers. With 1,000 pillars supporting 82 marble domes and four minarets, it’s the UAE’s largest mosque and can accommodate 40,000 worshippers.
Construction of Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque was completed in 2007
GETTY IMAGES
Back on board our comfy ship, there’s a laid-back Greek vibe. Most of my days begin with organic Greek yoghurt topped with honey. Mealtimes are never rushed. The main dining room is a pleasant, airy space, while the Taverna is the casual buffet restaurant. The pair of speciality restaurants, the Asian Pink Moon and Grill Seekers steakhouse, serve individually priced à la carte dishes. I particularly enjoy Pink Moon’s delicately flavoured noodle bowls (£18) and the Thai mango sticky rice dessert (£7).
• Read our full guide to cruises
So that passengers don’t end up with a big drinks bill, Celestyal has introduced CelestyalPay, a prepaid wallet that can be used for drinks and speciality dining. There are incentives to do this; for example, pre-purchase a €300 wallet (£264), and you’ll get a €55 (£48) bonus.
The Grill Seekers steakhouse is one of the speciality restaurants on the ship
I spend one afternoon in the ship’s Sozo Spa. Unlike most cruise ship spas, which are operated by a large global chain, Celestyal’s are run in-house. This is reflected in the reasonable prices and there’s none of the dreaded hard sell afterwards to buy products. I leave my 45-minute Swedish massage (£84) feeling totally relaxed.
On the last night, some of us gather in the bar to sample the Mixodyssey menu, specially created for the Gulf sailings, tasting flamboyant cocktails served in decorative glasses with theatrical embellishments including sparkling gems, spices and smoke. They come with beguiling names such as Midnight Oasis, Mythical Potion and Desert Rose, and cost just under £12. I opt for the Arabian Jewel, a fragrant concoction of gin, rosewater and cardamom. The menu was inspired by the epic Middle Eastern folk tales One Thousand and One Nights. Thankfully, I don’t need that long to get a real taste of this spellbinding region.
Jeannine Williamson was a guest of Celestyal, which has seven nights’ full board from £621pp, on an Iconic Arabia cruise departing from Dubai on February 28, 2026 (celestyal.com). Fly to Dubai
