Tea Leaves
Making the most of slow travel as Thailand’s railway modernization speeds up
A monk walks along the platform at Bangkok’s historic Hua Lamphong railway station. Superseded by the city’s new central terminal, the station is to be converted into a rail museum. (All photos by Oliver Raw)
OLIVER RAW
January 24, 2026 09:02 JST
The “Rapid” train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai takes nearly 14 hours. It is the service most online commentators insist you avoid. Having spent the previous month crisscrossing the country by rail, I see no reason to change course now. I book a third-class seat for 230 baht ($8) — the only option available — and ready myself for the long haul north.
