Positioned on the summit of a wooded ridge, two-and-a-half miles inland from Weligama’s surf beaches, Malabar’s 14 independent pool villas bask in postcard-worthy panoramas of paddy fields, wetlands, distant hills and the Indian Ocean. A lively chorus of Lankan bird life chirrups and tweets as you wander foliage-fringed garden pathways, swim laps of the hilltop pool or sip passionfruit margaritas from the rooftop bar. Service is slick, contemporary and authentic, and the playful design and detailing of the hotel, while feeling airy, light and overwhelmingly modern, sees welcome infusions of nostalgia in the form of Moorish, Indian and Arabic elements. 

Overall score 9/10

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Rooms and suites

Score 9/10
The identical villas feel serene and understated, with block-printed fabrics, chunky furniture and carved Rajasthani mirrors infusing the space with boho-chic edge. Showers are tucked away to the back, yet the dressing areas are flooded with light. The beds, slightly elevated above the living space, gaze through glass doors that fold back completely onto romantic turreted balconies with saltwater plunge pools and built-in seating.

Some villas face inland, over shimmering rice paddies, and others look to the ocean — both views are equally enchanting. Curtains are lightweight so you’ll inevitably wake early, but you won’t mind. If you are up at dawn (note: yoga lovers will find mats in the cupboard), you’ll be rewarded by magic scenes of mist-laden paddy fields and apricot skies, and a soundtrack of birds, crickets and distant temple chanting. 

Food and drink

Score 10/10
A diverse menu is at the heart of Hill House restaurant, and the striking 270-degree rural views, framed by fluted timber arches, form a fitting setting. The feast starts at breakfast with dishes such as Turkish eggs, smoked salmon bagels and shakshuka. Lunches and dinners follow the hotel’s aesthetic — think Sri Lankan, Indian and Middle Eastern dishes alongside some terrific plates that hero a single ingredient (trio of beets, roasted cauliflower, coconut lime ceviche).

There is Vietnamese influence too: pair the nuoc cham dressing with line-caught catch of the day or go for the twice-cooked pork belly with picked red cabbage and toasted sesame (absolutely worth the 45-minute wait). Finish with watalappam, a steamed coconut milk and jaggery Malay pudding usually served at special occasions. 

The sun-streaked roof terrace is ideal for sinking chilli-infused Malabar bloody marys or sipping glasses of fizz while delving into sharing platters. There’s a good wine selection to survey too (ask the in-the-know barman) plus a plethora of health-boosting juices and smoothies.

What else is there?

Score 8/10
The vibe is very relaxed, the staff are nurturing and wellness is a running theme. There’s a spa villa for treatments, a 35-metre pool for laps across the hillside and four-poster day beds for languid lounging. This used to be a cinnamon estate and native species have been planted in an effort to convert it to secondary rainforest. Learn more about the flora by following the interactive tree trail or by joining the in-house naturalist for a biodiversity tour. Or you could cycle through the paddy fields, watching for wetland birds and parading peacocks. 

Where is it?

Score 10/10
Bask in the best of both worlds — the privacy and quiet seclusion of a hilltop and easy proximity to the buzzy coast (though you will need transport to get there). Malabar offers free shuttles to its beach club in Mirissa, 20 minutes away, though surfy Weligama’s deep sandy bay is closer.

After immersive days surfing, cycling through rice paddies, whale watching, beach hopping, exploring Galle’s 16th-century fort, and even touring a local cinnamon estate, you’ll really appreciate Malabar’s tranquillity. It works as a base for longer stays too; day-trips to Yala and Udawalawe national parks are easy to do (and organise) from here. 

Price B&B doubles from £353
Restaurant mains from £11 
Family-friendly N 
Accessible N 

Emma Boyle was a guest of Malabar Hill (malabarhillsrilanka.com)