Sylt, Germany
Connected to the German mainland by a single rail causeway, Sylt is just over three hours from Hamburg by direct train. The largest of the North Frisian islands, it slices through the North Sea and the Wadden Sea, with salt marshes and mudflats to the east and 25 miles of white sands sweeping along the western coast, grassy dunes buffering the bracing winds.
Relatively unknown to UK visitors, the island has long been a popular destination for Germans and appeals to an affluent crowd, although not exclusively. Luxury hotels and pioneering health resorts sit side by side with multistorey apartment blocks, modest campsites and laid-back surfing schools.
Trains from Hamburg – soon to be upgraded with the new intercity (ICE L) fleet – arrive in Westerland, the largest town on the island, which expanded significantly during the 60s and 70s. Alternative bases include well-heeled Kampen or Keitum, the latter known for its maritime history and traditional thatched houses. Designated nature reserves cover other parts of the island, from the shifting dunes in List to the vast Braderup Heath, partly managed by a hardy breed of sheep.
Grab a coffee from Kaffeerösterei Sylt, order the herring sandwich from Hafenkiosk 24 and don’t miss the salty Sylter Royal oysters from Germany’s only commercial oyster farm. The restaurant Oma Wilma focuses on hearty fare, while the shop and bistro Käseklub, located on an old goat farm, serves a curated selection of cheeses.
Where to stay: Villa Klasen is a recently renovated boutique hotel in a charming art-nouveau style building with doubles from €120 B&B
Kate Mann
Sherkin, Ireland
It takes an hour and three-quarters by car, plus another 10 minutes by ferry, to get from Cork city, with its lively markets and revelrous pubs, to the relative tranquillity of Sherkin, one of the seven inhabited islands off the coast of West Cork.
None of these islands is especially large – the biggest, Bere Island, takes up about seven square miles – but they are all remarkably different, from sheltered little Garinish with its fine Edwardian gardens, to the ruggedness of Dursey, exposed to the elements at the tip of the Beara peninsula.
Sherkin is the one I know best. A few years back, I joined a group of friends who go there for a fortnight every summer, staying at a simple but appealing retreat called Sherkin North Shore. The kids do sailing courses down on Roaringwater Bay while the adults generally lounge around and enjoy life in a lower gear. There’s a sauna and a cafe where owner Michael O’Connor and his family cook terrific communal dinners. They also stage a (by all reports excellent) music festival, Open Ear, on the June bank holiday weekend.
Sherkin has three marked walking trails, taking you through the lush interior to white-sand beaches and a stunning horseshoe-shaped cove. Down towards the harbour, you’ll find the island’s only pub, the Jolly Roger, which serves chowder and toasties, and hosts music sessions in the busier months. And dotted around the island are artists’ studios (opening times vary, but you can call ahead to arrange a visit).
The buzzy mainland town of Baltimore is the gateway to Sherkin and also to Cape Clear farther south.
The other islands all have separate access points. For Heir or Hare Island, drive to Cunnamore Pier, half an hour west of Baltimore, and hop across on the ferry. You’ll be rewarded in the summer months by a brilliant restaurant and cookery school called Island Cottage – I had the good fortune to go for lunch in 2019 and the food was hearty and delicious.
Where to stay: Sherkin North Shore has rooms from €65 a night per adult, €30 for under-13s) and camping from €80 for a bell tent, €15 for a pitch
Killian Fox
Torcello, Italy
Venice is a city full of attractions, from its beautiful bridges to its Renaissance galleries and hidden spots to enjoy cicchetti or small plates. After a few days, however, the narrow streets and winding canals packed with tourists often spur a desire to escape the island. For many that will mean a trip to Murano, famous for its glass-making heritage, or even Burano, with its wildly coloured houses, both a short boat journey away. But for a real change of pace, switch to a smaller boat at Burano for the short ride to the sparsely populated island of Torcello, at the northern end of the Venetian lagoon.
The first thing that strikes you as you disembark is the sense of space. Following a wide path through the centre of the island, with water on one side and trees on the other, will bring you past green fields and quaint houses to the Ponte del Diavolo, or devil’s bridge, a rare example of an old Venetian bridge without parapets. If you find yourself feeling peckish, stop off at Taverna Tipica Veneziana, where you can get a selection of fried seafood and vegetarian meals. If you sit in the garden, you can see the restaurant’s goats and guinea pigs.
Continuing on the path will lead you to the main attraction: the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, founded in 639. It is unassuming from the outside, but the interior walls are decorated with stunning 11th-century mosaics, including a depiction of the last judgment.
Finish your visit by enjoying an ice-cream next to the church by the water’s edge, before retracing your steps back to the buzz of the city or, better still, stay overnight to enjoy the peace of the island once the day trippers have left.
Where to stay: Junior Suites Venezia has a restaurant, coffee shop, garden and doubles from £183 for a two-night stay
Kitty Croft
Frioul islands, France
Just 20 minutes by boat from the Vieux Port of Marseille, the Frioul islands, part of the protected Calanques national park, make a great day trip from the city – but it’s even better to stay longer to enjoy the wild beauty.
The two main islands, Rattoneau and Pomègues (each about 1.5 miles long), are linked by a 19th-century dyke, and hiking trails wind across the white limestone landscape to secluded swimming coves, pretty creeks and viewpoints back across the sparkling Med to town.
The ferry arrives at Rattoneau, where a few restaurants, shops and houses cluster around the harbour. Eat here or stock up on supplies, as there’s little elsewhere. Ou Sinon restaurant is a good choice for fresh seafood (try organic sea bass farmed on Pomègues).
About half an hour on foot from the port, Saint-Estève is the biggest beach on Rattoneau – sheltered, sandy and good for snorkelling (and there’s a small bar). Nearby, the 19th-century Hôpital Caroline, once used to quarantine travellers, is sometimes used for concerts today, while the old fort and second world war bunkers reveal the islands’ strategic importance. Across on Pomègues, it’s worth taking the long hike to the picturesque, remote cove Calanque de la Crine.
There are two other islands in the archipelago: tiny, rocky Tiboulen, used mostly for diving, and If island, home to a 16th-century fortress turned prison, the Château d’If (made famous by Alexandre Dumas’s The Count of Monte Cristo). Some ferries stop here en route to Rattoneau.
Where to stay: accommodation is limited to mainly rental apartments near the harbour. La Daurade du Frioul is a one-bed apartment right on the beach, from £70 a night
Jane Dunford
Cíes islands, Spain
For a Caribbean-like break on a camping budget, it’s hard to beat the car-free Cíes islands in north-western Spain. This archipelago off the Galician city of Vigo has the white-sand beaches, the turquoise sea and even the exclusivity – visitor numbers are limited as the islands are part of a national park, and overnight stays are allowed only at Easter and in summer (15 May to 14 September). Admittedly, the illusion is shattered when dipping a toe in the chilly Atlantic …
To reach the islands, visitors must request a free authorisation code up to 90 days in advance (at autorizacionillasatlanticas.xunta.gal), then use it to buy a boat ticket (details at turismodevigo.org). There are daily crossings from Vigo to Monteagudo island (45 minutes), which is linked to Faro island by a sandbar across a lagoon; the third island, San Martiño, can only be reached by private boat.
Rodas, the biggest beach, is a short walk from the pier, and has kayaks and snorkels to rent – there are no tropical fish, but plenty of octopuses, lobsters and crabs, and often bottlenose dolphins. Seven quieter beaches can be discovered along four hiking trails, which link lighthouses, viewpoints, forests and a bird observatory. The beachside Restaurante Playa de Rodas specialises in seafood – scallops, razor clams, Galician barnacles – and local albariño wine.
Where to stay: Camping Islas Cíes on Faro island has an excellent restaurant, tents with beds and pitches from €10.90, plus €10.90 per adult, €7.90 per child, booking essential
Rachel Dixon


