Rebecca Lo investigates how the 500,000 bottle cellar of late ‘Gambling Godfather’ Dr. Stanley Ho – often touted as one of Asia’s most remarkable collections – has become a driver for gastronomic tourism in Macau.
The association between Macau and gaming is undeniable, with the former Portuguese colony consistently outperforming Las Vegas in gaming revenue since 2007. Yet the city’s best kept secret may be integrated resort pioneer SJM Resorts’ wine collection.
SJM Resorts is a subsidiary of SJM Holdings Limited – the casino empire founded by Stanley Ho which is largely credited with steering the autonomous Chinese region to eclipse Vegas in its gaming galore. Ho died in 2020, but his deep passion for viticulture lives on in SJM’s wine collection, largely considered one of the continent’s best.
First introduced in 2001 at Robuchon a Galera (now Robuchon au Dôme), the cellar originally focused on serious European vintages that reflected the fine dining restaurant’s philosophy. Today, the collection has grown more comprehensive and includes Bordeaux Premier Crus alongside New World producers.
Scale, professionalism and context
At the same time, it maintained core categories including German Rieslings and rare older vintages. While heritage has remained strong, the collection is more youthful, diversified and oriented towards enhanced user experiences.
“SJM’s collection is significant in Asia because of its scale, professionalism and, most importantly, its living context,” said Winnie Chen, SJM’s assistant director of wine and beverage.
Housed across 23 climate controlled cellars across its Macau properties, its estimated total value is in the hundreds of million MOP (tens of million £’s). With 500,000 bottles and more than 17,000 impressions, “each label is assessed for food pairing suitability by our sommelier team,” Chen noted. “The collection houses museum-worthy treasures like an 1825 Château d’Yquem valued over MOP400,000 (£37,160), alongside highly regarded production wines suited for daily enjoyment.”
‘Wine experts just know about it’
Rather than kept as prized possessions, the collection is integrated into the group’s six top restaurants. Cantonese, Japanese and Italian as well as French wine is “to be paired and shared rather than merely displayed or reserved for private tasting”.
Annabel Jackson, writer and international wine management instructor at Hong Kong Polytechnic University, cited SJM’s annual Wine Spectator Grand Award wins for Robuchon au Dôme since 2004 and Casa Don Alfonso since 2009 as cementing the collection as one of the best in Asia.
“Wine experts just know about it,” said Jackson. “SJM is the only hospitality establishment in Asia to dominate those awards. Being a family business, SJM can dig deep. It is prepared to invest and maintain its cellars. Its legacy aspect attracts great sommeliers.”
Portuguese pours
She is eagerly anticipating the SJM’s wine shop at Grand Lisboa Palace currently in the planning stages. “Previously, the collection can only be consumed in SMJ’s outlets,” Jackson said. “Having the retail shop will offer a window into the extent of the cellars.”
With the Macau government promoting Portuguese wine as an integral component of its UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy designation, SJM has increased its Portuguese offerings in recent years.
“We have expanded to more than 250 Portuguese labels, making it Macau’s largest and most comprehensive Portuguese wine list,” said Chen. “Moving beyond a one-size-fits-all master list, we develop bespoke, restaurant-specific identities that serve as culinary passports.
Gastronomy hub
“At our contemporary Portuguese restaurant, Mesa by José Avillez, the list is now 100% Portuguese to tell an authentic story of Portugal’s terroir and culture, achieving a seamless harmony between wine and food.”
Chen felt that the collection is a core pillar behind Macau’s positioning as a tourism and gastronomy hub: “Connoisseurs come specifically to taste rare bottles and curated pairings, which directly drives hotel stays, dining spend and repeat visits.
“Our international awards—including World of Fine Wine, Star Wine List and Wine Spectator—provide authoritative endorsement, reinforcing confidence in Macau’s luxury dining credentials. And through ongoing training and expertise sharing, we help elevate the city’s wine service and hospitality standards.”
Changing habits
With 70% of SJM’s wine orders from greater Chinese clientele, Chen observed a shift in their consumer habits over the years. In particular, younger, value-conscious drinkers have been selecting high-quality, well-priced wines from emerging regions with an emphasis on character and craftsmanship.
“We’ve also seen a surge of interest in boutique Champagne growers,” she added. “Our guests are increasingly drawn to the artisanal narratives and unique terroir expressions of small production houses, moving beyond the grand marques to discover more individual, personality-driven cuvées.”
Related news
‘A handshake and a shared vision’: Prince Robert of Luxembourg on ASC partnership
