Raff started trick or treating as soon as he could walk in Sydney, so hopes are high for a US Halloween, but we soon find that central Palm Springs is pretty staid, save a few kids hitting up the shops on main street for lollies. On a hot tip, we drive to Panorama Park, a slice of US suburbia, and thankfully find the streets heaving with kids of all ages dressed in elaborate costumes; houses have gone all out too with statues of Cthulhu, nine-foot-high werewolves, and plenty of nods to the Mexican Day of the Dead. Before long, the candy collected is looking like an excess baggage issue, so we head back to our hotel for a late-night pumpkin-carving session.