I’ve been based in Wellington for most of my life, aside from a stint in Los Angeles. I love that it’s small and incredibly liveable here. There are lots of beautiful wooden homes with water views in the hills surrounding the harbour.
Unlike Los Angeles, you can do several things in a day and leave 10 minutes before you need to be somewhere, as Wellington is very pedestrian and ebike friendly.
It’s also wildly windy; apparently the world’s windiest city. Our normal wind would be a national emergency in many countries! I think it makes Wellington creatively buzzy because the southerly blasts are cold and fresh; it’s a dynamic environment.
Food
Wellington pretty much introduced coffee to Aotearoa New Zealand, so we’ve had quality coffee for decades. Touring musicians are excellent at judging cafes, and my musician friend Drew Erickson says Prefab Cafe is his favourite breakfast in the world.
Berhampore’s Gramercy Bakery does amazing sourdough, pastries and coffee. There’s a line out the door – and I’m often in it. It’s up there with pastries I’ve tried in France and Italy.
Morteza Kebab & Bakery is a new-ish Syrian spot in Newtown famous for its fresh-baked flatbread. It’s taken kebabs to the next level.
Rita is a set menu-style fine diner in Aro Valley. It’s in a 100-year-old workers cottage and is fancy but not stuffy. It only fits 30 people so you have to book.
When you want a few drinks – not just a wine with dinner – The Ram is the spot. They bring out a giant tray of tiramisu for dessert and spoon it on to your plate. Delicious!
Lower Hutt is a city about 20 minutes’ drive from Wellington. In its suburb Petone, House of Good Fortune is in a cute wooden building where they roast fair trade beans. It’s full of old circus art. There are cakes, pies and vegan options. This winter Te Ara Tupua scenic coastal pathway will open, linking Wellington and Lower Hutt, so people will be able to cycle (around 50 minutes) or walk (around three hours) there too.
Nature
The best river swim in greater Wellington is at Kaitoke regional park. Some scenes from Lord of the Rings, specifically of the Rivendell elf kingdom, were shot there, so you might see tourists. Walk five to 10 minutes past the filming site and there will be two paths that go down to some big, deep swimming holes surrounded by bush.
To see some of New Zealand’s rarer birds, do a day trip by boat to Kapiti Island bird sanctuary. It’s far enough from the mainland that there are no predators. You’ll see weka birds but watch they don’t steal your lunch.
On a calm day, take a paddle around the harbour in a Fergs Kayaks rental. I’ve done it with my kids – it’s fun, super easy and beautiful looking back up at the hills.
I grew up on the edge of the Wellington botanic gardens so I know them well. They technically close after dark but you can nip in with a torch from a top entrance called the Glen. Walk a couple of minutes down the path, turn off your torch, be very quiet and you should see glow worms.
The most magical sunset swim is Princess Bay beach. It’s located on the edge of the Cook Strait, which joins the deep ocean out to Antarctica, so it’s very cold. But you can see the South Island’s Kaikoura Range in the distance and the water glows golden and sparkly.
Nightlife
You can see the stars everywhere in Wellington but there’s no light spill over Remutaka Hill at Wairarapa dark sky reserve. It’s about an hour’s drive and there are lots of cool little towns around there like Martinborough and Greytown.
Like coffee, Wellington was early to artisanal beer brewing. It’s a big scene here. Garage Project’s Aro Valley tap room has a gazillion beers – and serves snacks and toasties. Hawthorn Lounge is my brother’s old-school cocktail bar, with a cozy fireplace in winter. I made the playlists of vintage jazz songs for him. It’s open until 3am from Tuesday to Saturday.
Bar Next Door only fits 16 people but it’s very cute and it’s next door to local favourite restaurant Margot’s. The gigs at the Rogue & Vagabond are casual and fun. People spill out onto the lawn with beers and burgers.
Inspiration
Loemis is an underground mid-winter arts festival (taking place from 9 – 21 June 2026). Newtown festival at the start of March is like a mini Notting Hill carnival.
Paul Melser pottery is near the Wairarapa dark sky reserve. His studio is in a little forest he’s grown to fire his kiln. Paul will be there making pottery as you’re looking at bowls and plates to buy. It’s close to Tararua Forest Park, which has gorgeous walks, swims and picnic spots.
Verb Wellington is a literary arts community, a festival and a gateway into Wellington’s writing scene. The Embassy theatre is an amazing refurbished 1920s-era cinema, with high-quality sound and projection and huge comfortable seats.
Neighbourhood
Newtown is all about great cafes, bars and owner-operator shops with no franchises or chains.
Cuba Street is the original art neighbourhood of Wellington and is still the spine of the city. It was designated for a motorway that wasn’t developed for decades so there were lots of cheap studios and cool spaces for rent, with interesting happenings. Jemaine [Clement] and I started doing Flight of the Conchords gigs at a venue on Cuba Street called Indigo. It’s now called San Fran.
Cuba Street is more gentrified these days but still has a great record shop, Slow Boat, cafes, bars and a popular ice-cream shop called Duck Island.
The beachside village of Paekākāriki (a 40 minute drive north) is a cool arty community with a beautiful beach, bike tracks, a cafe, a deli and a bakery. The train ride to get there overlooks the ocean.
Accomodation
Paekākāriki holiday park (from NZ$85, sleeps four) has an old-school Kiwi summer holiday vibe.
Ohtel (from NZ$151 a night) is a retro boutique hotel that’s on the edge of Wellington harbour. Naumi (from NZ$238 a night) is on Cuba Street with an awesome hotel bar.
The Intrepid Hotel (from NZ$237 a night) is another cool boutique hotel just across from Rogue & Vagabond.
